Sadhguru says in the heart of Makardah, ancient rivers and rituals converge, creating a sacred symphony that bridges history with the divine. At Makardah, the fierce compassion of Devi Makra Chandi is felt, sculpted in stone and woven into every sunrise and prayer.
Mystic Journey | Howrah | February 22, 1995
Sadhguru: Nestled in the heart of Howrah lies the village of Makardah, a place steeped in history and shrouded in mystique. Known for the ancient shrine of Devi Makra Chandi, Makardah draws pilgrims and devotees from far and wide, eager to honour the goddess whose presence is felt through vibrant rituals and sacred legends. From the red-stained sacred stones to stories of traders who worshipped for safe passage on the crocodile-infested Saraswati River, Makardah’s tales capture the enduring essence of devotion and the timeless allure of divine protection. This article delves into the sacred origins, legends, and cultural significance of this storied village.
Among the significant locations within Howrah is Makardah, renowned for the revered temple of Devi Makra Chandi. Many believe that the very name "Makardah" originates from Devi Makra Chandi. Nestled in the Domjur police jurisdiction, Makardah sits along the Munshirhat-Domjur Road, bearing the sacred name attributed to the goddess.
The legends surrounding Devi Makra Chandi are steeped in mystery and myth. It is said that in ancient times, the Saraswati River, originally flowing southward from Tribeni, took an eastern turn near the temple. Today, a few water bodies remain to hint at the ancient river’s path, their silted channels bearing silent witness to the past. The term dah, meaning “pit” or “Water-Body,” aptly describes the landscape. According to legend, a trader named Shrimantha Saudagar, who once travelled along the Saraswati River for trade, received a divine vision instructing him to construct the temple and begin worshipping the goddess. Although the original temple no longer exists, the present temple was built over three centuries ago and still holds three stone relics as remnants of that bygone era.
The spirit of Makardah is held in the sacred stone, colored by centuries of devotion and the dreams of its devotees.
In literary references, the mention of Devi Makra Chandi is found in the Chandimangal Kavya. The present-day temple owes its design to Zamindar Ramkant Kunduchowdhury of Mahiari, dating back to 1743. The temple complex includes the main temple for the goddess, a natmandir (hall for performances), a nahabatkhana (musicians' gallery), a bhogmandir (offering hall), and a Shiva temple. In front of the goddess’s shrine, a spacious natmandir welcomes visitors, while to its southwest lies a small east-facing temple dedicated to Devi’s consort, Bhairav. Behind the temple is the Saraswati Kunda, a pond that residents say formed as the Saraswati River silted and transformed.
The idol of Devi Makra Chandi is represented by a vermilion-smeared stone adorned with a silver third eye, a nose ring, and ear ornaments. Myths around Devi Makra Chandi are abundant. One belief holds that her name derives from the Markandeya Purana, while another suggests that makra evolved from makara, meaning “crocodile.” The Saraswati River, once teeming with crocodiles, was an active trade route for merchants. To ensure safe passage from these dangers, early traders began worshipping Makra Chandi, which evolved over the time becomes “Makara Chandi.”
With every ritual, Makardah renews an ancient promise to its people—a bond with the Divine that time cannot erode.
There’s a popular legend that a famous merchant, Shrimantha Saudagar, once saw Devi Makra Chandi in a dream while trading along the river. Inspired by this vision, he established the goddess’s shrine in the area. At that time, the Saraswati River flowed southward from Tribeni and then eastward near the temple. Today, Devi Makra Chandi lacks a defined idol; instead, the red stone, adorned with a silver third eye, nose ring, and ear ornaments, is worshipped as the deity. Special rituals take place during Kali Puja on the new moon in the month of Kartik, and the goddess is offered a variety of traditional foods including rice, fried vegetables, fish, and sweets.
The temple holds a storied history; it was once said that wherever the sound of the temple’s drum reached, no other puja could take place in that vicinity. Beside Devi’s shrine is a Shiva temple, which is said to have once been adjacent to the Saraswati River. Today, a pond, believed to be the remnant of the river, sits behind the temple, bearing witness to this vanished landscape. The ancient red stone continues to carry memories of a long-gone era, and as the ages progress, the sacred stone has shown signs of gradual erosion.
The legacy of Makardah is etched in the red-stained stone, a place where faith and folklore find their eternal resting ground.
According to a different legend, a merchant travelling along the river encountered a vision that revealed an underground idol of Chandi in a dense cane forest along the riverbank. The responsibility of the goddess’s worship fell to the Kundu family of Andul. The original idol was said to be enormous, requiring the aid of ladders to offer garlands or sandalwood paste to the deity. Over time, seeing water from the goddess’s head pour onto the priest’s feet, the goddess is said to have begun sinking back into the earth to relieve him of accumulating sin. Today, the deity remains half-submerged and worshipped for thousands of years.
Each dawn heralds a grand Mangalarati to awaken the goddess, followed by ritual bathing and worship that continues through the day. The goddess is offered traditional dishes like khichuri, various curries, and fish, followed by a ceremonial closing of the temple at noon. In the evening, the doors open again for worship, with the goddess honoured in her forms as Annapurna and Durga.
A fifteen-day fair accompanies the annual Dol festival, drawing thousands of devotees from distant places. Bengal is dotted with other revered Chandi temples, such as the Mashan Chandi temple in Jaguli, Nadia, and Ghaghar Chandi in Asansol, East Burdwan. In all these temples, Chandi is worshipped not as an idol but as a venerated stone.
