Sadhguru reflects on his mystical journey to Dayamayi Kali Temple in Murshidabad, describing the profound stillness as dusk settles. "As the stars emerge over Dayamayi Kali's shrine, the temple awakens with a quiet, sacred energy," he shares, "and devotees find themselves enveloped in the gentle glow of candlelight, drawn closer to the divine."
Mystic Journey | Murshidabad | November 24, 2010
Sadhguru: Nestled in the historical heart of Murshidabad, the Dayamayi Kali Temple is more than just a sacred site; it is a revered testament to centuries of devotion and tradition. Established in 1759 by the devout Krishna Chandra Hota, this awe-inspiring temple is celebrated for its exquisite terracotta architecture and the dark-stone idol of Dayamayi Kali, believed to be a vigilant and protective deity. Each Amavasya, the temple grounds overflow with pilgrims drawn from across the region, while the temple itself glows softly under candlelight, honouring the goddess who, legend holds, prefers the warmth of flames over electric light. From its grand structure to the intricate design of its Shakti-peeth, the Dayamayi Kali Temple remains a focal point of spirituality, where ancient customs continue to captivate and inspire.
Murshidabad, the vibrant core of Subha Bangla, is steeped in both Shaiva and Shakta traditions, housing a rich tapestry of temples dedicated to the worship of Kali. This district is dotted with sanctified grounds and magnificent shrines where devotees congregate in reverence to the divine mother. Among the countless centres of Kali worship, the Dayamayi Kali Temple, Vishnupur Kali Bari, Joy Kali Bari, Kripamayi Temple, and the renowned Kiriteshwari Temple are particularly significant. Of these, the Dayamayi Kali Temple, standing in the heart of Berhampore, is one of the district’s most ancient sanctuaries, captivating pilgrims with its history, architecture, and the aura of devotion that surrounds it.
This sanctuary of Dayamayi Kali is not just a temple; it's an eternal dance of devotion, where pilgrims gather to experience her vigilant spirit
Established in 1759 (1166 in the Bengali calendar) by Krishnendra Hota, Dayamayi Kali Temple is a complex with multiple shrines, each echoing centuries of worship. The northern temple within the complex enshrines Dayamayi Kali, whose black-stone idol is beautifully crafted and exudes a presence that devotees believe is alive and powerfully divine. She is a deity renowned for her vigilance and responsiveness to the devout. Her temple is south-facing, built in the classical Jor Bangla style, with a towering height that reaches nearly forty feet. Intricate terracotta ornamentation embellishes its columns, arches, and walls, showcasing craftsmanship that has survived the test of time, giving the temple a solemn yet intricate beauty.
Surrounding Dayamayi Kali’s shrine are thirteen Shiva temples, symbolically protecting her on all sides. With six temples each to the east and west, and one to the north, these sacred enclosures create an almost mystical aura, as if Shiva himself guards the Goddess. To the west of Dayamayi’s main temple, a line of one-spired shrines houses idols of Rama-Sita, Radha-Krishna, Annapurna, and Ardhanarishvara, a testament to the diversity of devotion within this single complex. In front of Dayamayi’s sanctum is a dedicated temple for Graharaj, the king of planets, showing how all celestial and divine elements converge in reverence here.
The Dayamayi Kali Temple, with its towering terracotta facade, preserves the architectural soul of Murshidabad’s divine heritage.
The architectural elegance of these temples is a marvel to devotees and visitors alike, who are captivated by the grandeur of each detail. On every new moon, the temple complex fills with worshippers who come to experience the powerful energy of the deity. Kartik Amavasya, the darkest night of the Hindu lunar calendar, sees the largest gatherings, with countless pilgrims staying awake through the night, entranced by the spectacle of devotion that unfolds. It is not uncommon for tens of thousands to assemble, transforming the temple grounds into a sea of reverence under the vast night sky.
In 1766, around the ancient town of Saidabad, Krishnendra Hota, a fervent disciple of Kali, established both Shiva and Kali temples. Unique in their devotion, these temples’ inner sanctums remain devoid of electric lighting. Legend holds that the Goddess cannot bear bright illumination, so throughout the year, her presence is revered by the soft glow of candles and oil lamps. When attempts were once made to install electric lighting, the goddess reportedly appeared in a dream, instructing the temple caretaker to abandon this idea. Since then, only the flickering light of candles and lamps has adorned her shrine. During the temple’s founding month of Baisakh and on Kali Puja, the entire sanctuary is decorated in the soft radiance of candlelight, creating an ambience that feels both sacred and otherworldly.
The aura of Dayamayi Kali transcends stone and mortar; she lives in the legends, dreams, and faith of every pilgrim who walks her sacred path
Krishnendra Hota, a Naib (chief officer) in the Krishnanagar Royal Estate, was more than an official; he was a deeply dedicated Kali worshipper and practitioner of tantric arts. Nearly 270 years ago, he achieved spiritual mastery under the direct guidance of the divine mother herself, leading him to build the temple as a place of devotion and transformation. After the tragic loss of his daughter, he renounced worldly life, immersing himself in the worship of Kali until his passing in Agrahayan of 1187 on the Bengali calendar. It is said his wife, Bhairavi Krishna Kamini Devi, attained spiritual fulfilment at the Bishnupur cremation grounds. After Krishnendra’s time, his son Anandachandra Hota and grandson Shibnath Hota continued to serve as temple caretakers, though today, no direct descendants remain.
The south-facing Jor Bangla temple, constructed on the first day of Baisakh in 1166 Bengali year, has three arches and multiple entrances, each graced by a divine sense of purpose and design. The idol of Kali here, poised atop Shiva, is deeply symbolic of the cosmic dance of creation and destruction. Regarded by many as the largest char-chala (four-roofed) temple in Murshidabad, it stands nearly forty feet tall, with surrounding panels depicting mythological scenes, including the Dashavatar, the epic Lanka War, and floral motifs. Within, a stone idol of Kali is venerated each week on Tuesdays and Saturdays, with special ceremonies on the grand night of Kali Puja. The Amavasya of Dipanwita marks an intense day of rituals, where devotees line up from dawn, awaiting their chance to offer prayers. Daily worship continues throughout the year, with fish offered as part of the goddess’s nitya bhog (daily offerings).
The temple's anniversary in Baisakh and the festival of Poush attract devotees from not only Murshidabad but also the farthest corners of Bengal, each bringing offerings and devotion to Dayamayi’s feet. These gatherings stand as an enduring testament to the powerful pull of the temple, a place where the essence of Murshidabad’s spirituality thrives and reaches out to those who seek divine grace and protection.
